tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-40641746969563148782024-02-20T09:52:03.089-08:00HELLO HELLO AFRICABaobob TreeCandelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.comBlogger36125tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-54122876193425871032010-06-02T07:15:00.000-07:002010-06-02T07:37:02.748-07:00GOING HOME!!!Hello Blogettes! It has been awhile. Actually it has been nearly 9 months since I updated the blog. (It even took me a while to remember my sign on password). A lot has happened over the last 9 months. We took a trip to Capetown, South Africa and it was fantastic. Capetown is unbelievably beautiful with its shoreline mountains and pristine beaches. The water was a little cold but it didn't stop me or Trevor from catching a few waves. Beth will attest that the shopping was comparative to anything available in the US and the people were friendly. We did not run into any trouble although I understand that street crime is pretty high. We also ventured out to wine country (Stellenbach, SA). South Africa produces some excellent wines and after three tours, beth had to take over the driving. Thereafter we drove down the coast to do some whale and great white shark watching. <br />After our Capetown trip we stayed close to home for the Christmas holidays enjoying the weather and utilizing our swimming pool and sauna. The beginning of the year brought a lot of work as I organized several training programs and was fortunate enough to bring a couple of my cohorts from the USA's office in Denver out to put on some training. It was good to see them and I think they had a blast going on safari and boating down the mighty Zambezi.<br />My last month here I actually spent most of it in the US trucking around a delegation of high level Zambians to visit our criminal justice system. We visited our national training center in South Carolina and the US Supreme Court in Washington DC. <br />Finally, we just watched the packers pulling out of our driveway with all our possessions heading out for the long journey back home. We are looking forward to returning back to our home in Durango and seeing our old friends and acquaintances.<br />As I look back, I realize that we have had the experience of a lifetime and seen and done things that I could not have imagined. I have met so many good people and further enhanced my appreciation for how incredibly lucky we are to be Americans. I don't care what anybody says, America has its problems but it is 100 times better than the alternatives. And anyone who doesn't believe that is either not American, has never lived in America, or has never lived anywhere other than America and incredibly and ignorantly thinks they have it bad.Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-7356136498778022352009-08-06T06:22:00.000-07:002009-08-06T07:10:29.617-07:00What Happened to Summer?On my last entry I reflected on our first year in Zambia and was looking forward to our return home for the summer. Well it is now August and summer is almost over. I have returned back to Zambia and anxiously await the arrival of Beth and the kids this weekend. This was the busiest summer I can remember. We spent two weeks in Durango which included attending a wedding over the 4th of July. We left Durango way before we wanted to and didn't accomplish everything we needed to do with our house nor did we see all the people we wanted to see etc. So for those we did not see, believe me it was not intentional. <br /><br />It was nice to be back and as far as we could tell Durango didn't seem as affected by the recession as we had heard and read in the Herald but there did seem to be less people in town overall.<br /><br />Our hastened departure from Durango was born out of necessity as our next stop was Maui, Hawaii. Maui provided us with a much needed vacation and a chance to just relax. The weather was cooperative and the accommodations were great. I got to reunite with my buddy Sam Grim who has pretty much lived on Maui since we both graduated from Durango High School. We were able to get plenty of beach time in and the surf was excellent to the point where it got too big on our last day. I also was able to show the kids where I used to live on Maui and took them to a few out of the way secret surf spots.<br /><br />After buying our fill of t-shirts, moo moos, flip flops and all other things Hawaiian, it was time to return to Denver as the girls each had Volleyball camps to attend and Beth had shopping for school clothes in her sights. I had five days left in Denver before I would return to Zambia. Those days were spent visiting relatives, shuttling volleyball players, sitting in line at the DMV so that Rianne could get her Driver's permit, shopping, coordinating meals with relatives and moving to three different houses in five days!<br /><br />Before I knew it, I was arriving at Lusaka International Airport and looking forward to my home and my things and looking back at the whirlwind tour that was our summer vacation.Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-12952885257633581172009-06-08T05:16:00.000-07:002009-06-10T02:35:15.683-07:00Almost a Year.Well Blogettes it has been almost a year since we touched down in Africa. It has been quite an evolution for the Candelaria family. Reflecting upon our arrival, we were definitely novices when it came to living abroad. Everything that had been so certain in our lives was suddenly uncertain. Not knowing what to expect or who to trust, we waded through or first month very skeptical and overly cautious.<br />The biggest obstacle to overcome was security. Coming from Durango, security was a concern but not an issue. However, upon our arrival at the airport we were greeted with security guards carrying AK-47 machine guns, police check points on the way to our new residence, and a 24 hour guard for our residence. Once at the house, there were bars on all the windows and locking iron gates over every door entrance. We were given a quick lesson on how to arm the alarm system and we were introduced to our guard. I could tell it made a big impression on Beth and the kids as there was an uneasy quiteness present in each of them. Never in my life had I ever really had to worry about my security or be in a position where my only defense was a call to the Marines.<br />When nightfall came and our Embassy sponsors drove away, the realization hit us that we were suddenly alone in a new country, did not know anyone, had no transportation, and we would have to totally rely on others for our basic needs until we got our bearings. I remember walking around the inside of the house looking for the safest place to take shelter should we ever come under attack. A place that would remain hidden from windows or doorways to buy us time while we waited for the Marines to arrive.<br />The following days we began to venture out. The first trip was a walk to the grocery store which was about 4 blocks away from our house. I purposely waited until about noon and then Beth and I briefed the kids on what we were doing, where we were going, and instructed them to stick close to mom and dad. As we left the confines of our walled yard and began walking down the street we were greeted with stares from the numerous Zambians that were walking on the street. I can't help but imagine that we looked like a duck family walking down the road. Me on one side herding the kids and Beth on the other doing the same.<br />When we arrived at the grocery store we were greeted with unfamiliar products that were very expensive. Once again it felt as though all eyes were upon us. (and they probably were because I'm sure we looked awkward and out of place). We bought a few things and left the store to walk back home. There was a lot of activity with cars, buses, and taxis whizzing by, horns honking and of course numerous people walking around.<br />As we made our way back into our safe haven, I painstakenly made sure all our doors and windows were locked and all alarms were on. As the first week wore on, we felt as though we were in a little better shape than when we arrived. The next week, I brought a vehicle and our world opened up quite quickly. As the weeks turned into months, our fears and concerns softened. But in Africa, there are constant reminders that you must stay vigilant even when things seem relatively calm. For instance, around Halloween a person who lived about 5 Kilometers down the road from us contracted an unidentified viral hemorraging fever (Ebola type). That person died within a week, the EMT who evacuated her to South Africa died about two weeks later and the person who tended to her in South Africa died about a week after that. To make matters worse, the original patient had a nephew living with her who just happened to sit next to Trevor at school and come to find out he was at home with a high fever. My anxiety level has never been higher as we waited to hear whether the nephew had the virus and wondering if Trevor had been exposed. For about a week every time Trevor sneezed or coughed I was in knots thinking that he may have the virus and what an idiot I was for bringing my family to Africa and exposing them to these things. In all honesty, we were about a day away from pulling up stakes and leaving. But as time wore on and the threat lessened, we held the course and all our worries were unfounded as the nephew did not have the virus and he returned back to school. (To this day, the virus has not been identified as any previously known virus, which is common in Africa as people die everyday from unknown illnesses.). Having survived that scare, the fact that all our worldly possessions and vehicle from the States still hadn't arrived seven months after they were packed seemed somewhat trivial, but nonetheless made life more difficult than it had to be.<br />Now that a year has almost passed, we are gearing up for a return home but not for good, as was the original plan, but instead just for the summer.<br />It turns out that we have adapted well and we were able to overcome our early fears of the unknown and unfamiliar. Our perceived security issues turned out to be nothing more than standard precautions. The kids enjoy their school, and as we had envisioned, they have been exposed to people, places and opportunities that simply do not exist in Durango, Colorado. We have travelled to numerous destinations on this continent, taken several safaris and visited one of the Seven Natural Wonders of the world. (Victoria Falls)<br />So as I look back at our year abroad, and knowing that our decision to uproot and move to Africa is tested on a daily basis, I can only wish that anyone reading this will have the good fortune of experiencing those same trials and tribulations that we have because in my view it is the trips outside of our comfort zone that make life worth living.Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-82692792448535216992009-05-03T10:57:00.000-07:002009-05-03T11:45:06.847-07:00"Just give me some time."Hey Bloggettes, I'm trying to catch you up so I'm doing multiple Posts.<div>After the departure of my parents, we had a week to decompress and then get ready for our next guests, Ryan and Peyton Woolverton. Ever since we moved to Zambia, Ryan has wanted to come visit. Early on, Ryan would talk a big game but he wouldn't pull the trigger and actually commit to buying the tickets. He continued to toy with the idea well into the Christmas season when I finally called him out on the carpet and essentially told him that if he was going to come out he either had to SH*& or get off the pot. It wasn't but a week later when I checked my emails and there was an itinerary for Ryan and Peyton sitting in my inbox. </div><div>Three months later, there they were walking in through customs at the Lusaka Airport. However, Ryan's bag didn't travel as well as he did and it was no where to be found. (Not uncommon for flights through Johannesburg, South Africa). Unfortunately, the following day once again failed to produce his bag so I provided him with some shirts and shorts and Trevor did the same for Peyton. With he and Peyton now looking exceptionally cool (due to the new duds) we headed out for Chipata, Zambia. </div><div>Chipata is on the eastern border between Zambia and Malawi and is about an eight hour drive from Lusaka. The drive itself was uneventful except for Ryan's amazement at how the Zambian women could carry so many things on the top of their heads with perfect balance. We would also slow down on numerous occasions to snap off pictures.</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>We spent the night at Mamarula's Lodge in Chipata. Again, somewhat uneventful except for the unintentional entertainment provided by Ryan. Shortly after check in Trevor came to our room laughing hysterically. Apparently, Ryan picked up a hot water kettle in his room thinking it was a flashlight. (Just for the record, the kettle looked nothing like a flashlight!) He proceeded to spill all the water in the kettle all over his tv and other electronics in the room just as Trevor and Peyton were walking into the room. As both kids burst out in laughter, Ryan could only react by stating "just give me some time guys". As we watched the hotel staff bring towels and mops, we kept hearing Trevor in the background saying over and over "just give me some time". For the rest of the trip, whenever someone did or said something that wasn't up to par, we would all say "just give me some time." </div>Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-7631252376639956912009-05-03T10:10:00.000-07:002009-05-03T10:57:13.267-07:00Already gone!Hello Blogettes.<div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>It has been quite while but in my defense I have been pretty busy. Over the past month in a half we have had many visitors and explored some new and familiar landmarks here in Zambia. Our first visitors (my mom and dad) toured Victoria Falls. It was their 50th Wedding Anniversary and my friends at the Zambezi Sun International surprised me and them when they put them in the Presidential Suite. It was the perfect start to a great few days. While in Livingstone, we visited Victoria Falls and engaged in some of the local craft markets. Unlike my first visit to the Falls, this time the water was flowing. So much so that it was very difficult to snap off any pictures because the backsplash of the Falls rose up so high it was like being in an intense rainstorm. </div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>My parents and I (the kids had school and stayed behind), also embarked on a river safari for a chance to brush elbows with the hippos and the crocodiles. Fortunately the animals obliged and my parents were able to take in the safari experience while floating down the mighty Zambezi river with the sun setting in the background. It was just before the sunset that I could see my Dad's eyes glazing over. I imagined it was because he was hit with the realization that he, a Durango native who grew up on the end of East Third Avenue, and who as a boy sold newspapers to the men in the pool halls and bars to help make ends meet, was now 74 years old and floating down the mighty Zambezi River on the Continent of Africa with his bride of fifty years. Or maybe it was because he was on his 4th gin and tonic and wasn't feeling any pain. Either way, we had a great time! <br /></div>Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-16074172791974728142009-03-19T01:23:00.000-07:002009-03-19T01:33:48.790-07:00A Time to Reflect.As with all whirlwind tours, eventually they wind down. So was the case today when we waved goodbye to Grandma and Grandpa. It went by so fast that it almost feels as though they were never here. They were afforded a small taste of Africa in the time they spent here. From the crafts and curios to the majestic falls of Victoria to safaris down the mighty Zambezi River and a few cold ones and some steaks by our pool. I hope they enjoyed their experience here in Africa and that their trip lived up to their expectations. I know we sure enjoyed seeing and hosting them and sharing our African experience with them.Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-15911342005035167762009-03-17T11:31:00.000-07:002009-03-17T12:09:17.329-07:00Tiny Tim'sOne of the stops on our whirlwind tour was Tiny Tim's Orphanage for children that are HIV +. Grandma was able to give her homemade blankets away as well as some other supplies. Beth was able to donate the money she has raised by holding local Bunco tournaments. The Reverend Zimba was most appreciative and we walked away feeling our efforts, although not huge considering the scope of what is actually needed, were necessary and very much appreciated. As we drove away from the orphanage the children were smiling and singing "Goodbye friends, goodbye friends, we love you we'll miss you, goodbye friends."Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-75678959309592384482009-03-15T12:36:00.000-07:002009-03-15T13:25:40.066-07:00VisitorsHey Blogettes,<div>Our visitors (Don and Karin Candelaria) arrived looking alive and refreshed and no worse for the wear. They have been here about a week and have had a whirlwind tour of Zambia. We started off with a trip across Lusaka to watch Rianne's soccer tournament. She is on the Varsity team and they won the tournament.</div><div>Next was a trip to the Ambassador's House for an intimate brunch with the Ambassador Donald Booth and his lovely wife Anita Booth. We had some great food and conversation and grandma and grandpa got to get to know the Ambassador on a personal level. By the time we left, they were buddies.</div><div>After about 150 games of ping pong between grandpa and Trevor (split about 50/50), grandpa grandma, and I headed off to Livingstone to spend some time at Victoria Falls. We grabbed a quick flight and stayed at the Zambezi Sun located right next to the falls. </div><div>The Falls were raging and it was difficult to get good pictures because there was so much water that you get drenched immediately.</div><div>While in Livingstone we took a short safari game drive and saw plenty of animals. We also took a boating safari above the Falls and listened to the hippos while sipping gin and tonics as the sunset over the mighty Zambezi River. </div><div>Thereafter, we flew back to Lusaka and relaxed back at home hitting the pool and sauna. Trevor was anxiously awaiting the return of his grandpa to continue the non-stop ping pong, washers, and Oh hell tournaments. The two of them are inseparable.</div><div>On Friday we had a trip to Tiny Tim's Orphanage. Grandma had been crocheting blankets to donate to the Orphanage and Beth and the kids have been collecting clothes, toys and school supplies to donate to the children of Tiny Tim. All the children at Tiny Tim's are orphans and HIV positive. Despite their health and their environment, the kids are very upbeat and extremely grateful for the donations. As we spoke with the director, Reverend Zimba, the children sang "Welcome, Welcome, we love you, we need you." Unfortunately, there are too many Tiny Tim like places throughout Zambia.</div><div>Today we went to the local craft market to pick up a few things. Grandma and grandpa picked up several things that will undoubtedly push the limits of their allowed baggage weight. </div><div>Overall, I think it has been a great experience for grandma and grandpa. It's not exactly what they were expecting and actually better than they thought. We are so glad they got to experience a little of what we get to experience because with many things in Africa, you really have to experience it to understand it. Words just can't do it justice. The little couple that got married back in 1959 in Durango, Colorado is now celebrating their 50th Wedding Anniversary in Africa. What a strange ride it has been! </div>Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-40662536481083568162009-02-23T02:05:00.000-08:002009-02-23T02:26:08.152-08:00Clearing the WayThat's right Blogettes I will be clearing some of the photos off the blog as we have guests arriving in a week and will need room to post photos of the visit. My Mom and Dad will be arriving on March 5. We are very excited!!! It will be their first visit to Africa and we have many activities planned including a trip to Livingstone to celebrate their 50th wedding anniversary. It will be nice to have family come out and see where we are living and how we are living. Given the economic melt down back home, the lifestyle here in Zambia (as we are living) is becoming more and more attractive. <br />The upcoming months will be very busy. A week after my parents leave, it will be Spring Break and Ryan and Peyton Woolverton will be arriving to spend Spring Break with us. Here in Zambia the kids get two full weeks off for Spring Break. We have many activities planned while Ryan and Peyton are here including Safaris to South Luangwa Park - Victoria falls and some four wheeling in Chobe National Park in Botswana, and a trip to Tiny Tim's Orphanage.<br />After the Woolverton's depart we will have a small respite until Beth's Father arrives at the beginning of May for a week.<br />It will be hectic because I am also trying to continue to work during this whole parade of guests. Nonetheless, we are overjoyed to be able to share our experiences with our family and friends. <br />Finally, I will be going back to Washington for a week during May. So before I know it it will be June.Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-18090313371622719572009-01-26T01:28:00.000-08:002009-01-26T01:52:49.301-08:00Re-enforcements Have Arrived!Hello Blogettes. Things are finally settling down here after the Christmas break. We are settling back into our routines and getting back to work. Fortunately, DOJ has finally filled the law enforcement portion of the Women's Justice Empowerment Initiative. My new counterpart is Jim Lane. He hails from Phoenix, Arizona and is a former Investigator for the State of Minnesota. With Jim's arrival we can now begin the process of training investigators on how to put together gender based crimes. Plus it's nice not to be the only Justice employee in the country. So Jim and I have adopted the motto "there is no Justice, there is just us." We are known as the Jims of Justice. (It could be worse.) So we will forge ahead in pursuit of justice for those who can not secure it for themselves. (Sounds much more impressive than it actually is). Stay tuned. (Oh, I still have a bunch of pictures from Swakopmund, Namibia which I will post soon).Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-29333783766706278442009-01-13T10:00:00.001-08:002009-01-13T10:10:10.518-08:00More Namibia.I cannot say enough about Namibia. About the only thing it lacked was a ski area. But I have had enough snow in my lifetime to not have that as part of my vacation criteria. In fact it will be really hard to go back to the snow country and leave my 80 degree swimming pool behind. The ocean was deep blue and the skies were amazingly clear. I took tons of pictures and since a picture says a thousand words, sit back and look at my "War and Peace." Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-75860140417455498922009-01-10T23:51:00.000-08:002009-01-11T00:31:58.396-08:00Namibia, AfricaOver the Christmas break we ventured toward and into Namibia. Namibia is a relatively new country that used to be part of South Africa and gained its independence in 1990. It has a very large German influence, in fact, there were times (especially in Swakopmund) that I thought I was in Germany. Most everyone, including the Africans, spoke German and English. The country itself was a lot like Arizona. Dry and arid, about 90 degrees and cooler at night. The landscape was desert sand and desert mountains. The cities are lined with palm trees and everything was well groomed and very clean. Windhoek, the capital, was a very nice city. Many buildings were new and there was a lot of development. We were very surprised that we saw very few people walking around and no beggars or street vendors. All of which are prevalent in Zambia. There were great shopping malls in Windhoek that could have easily been in Cherry Creek or Scottsdale. Great restaurants with cheap prices. A steak dinner with a couple of drinks and dessert would be around $15 US dollars. We quickly realized that Namibia is not characteristic of the Africa we have come to know. <div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>We spent three days in Windhoek relishing our shopping outlets and soaking up the Western look and feel. I must admit that it felt good to actually walk around a mall. Something I do not enjoy back in the US. If we had come to Namibia instead of Zambia, it would have been a totally different experience for us. The two countries are like night and day. <br /></div>Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-69350376966241358642008-12-27T22:44:00.000-08:002008-12-28T01:22:47.520-08:00Off to NamibiaIt's time to get ready for our trip to Namibia. Over our Christmas break we mulled over several options on where to go. We quickly discovered that we were late getting into the game. Most of the popular destinations such as the Seychelles, Zanzibar, Comorros and Capetown were booked up as early as September as most of southern Africa visits these places over the break. So our November brainstorming sessions on where to go were somewhat short and limited. After asking a few of the more seasoned ex-pats on what was available, we decided to head southwest to our neighboring country, Namibia. Namibia is a fairly new country having gained its independence in the early 1990's. It has a very strong German influence as it belonged to Germany back in the day. Namibia has several different attractions from the highest dunes in the world to the Kalahari Desert to it's coastal gem the city of Swakopmund. Of course there are great game parks and we plan on staying at Etosha game park. At Etosha we will encounter cheetah, black and white rhino and ostriches. All of which are not available in Zambia. Windhoek, the capital of Namibia, is a modern city about the size of Colorado Springs. We are looking forward to good shopping and good roads and infrastructure. Something that is truly lacking in Zambia. We will fly in to Windhoek via Johannesburg, South Africa. Stay tuned as our cameras will be rolling and we plan on flooding the blog with numerous pictures. Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-44511499846295451462008-12-24T08:55:00.000-08:002008-12-24T09:30:21.817-08:00Best Christmas Ever!!Merry Christmas Blogettes! May our blog find you and yours happy and healthy this holiday season. We are experiencing quite a different Christmas than years past. It is about 80 degrees and raining off and on. Such weather makes it hard to distinguish Christmas from any other day here in Zambia. However, this Christmas we had the honor and privilege to experience the true meaning of Christmas. Last weekend, Rianne, Deryn and Trevor participated in a gift wrapping party at the Ambassador's residence. The Marines had collected presents for their "Toys for Tots" program. On Christmas Eve, Beth and the kids accompanied the Marines to deliver the toys to Lusaka's poorest Compounds. I had the misfortune of having to go into work so I truly missed out. Fortunately, Beth snapped some great pictures and I could tell from the accounts given by the kids of their experience that they got it! <div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Beth indicated there were several moments where she had to look away to try and keep her composure, especially when the Compound children began singing "The Good Lord Loves Us". A few times she looked up and saw Deryn with tears in her eyes as she talked with the children and held some of the smaller ones. Another classic moment was when all the presents had been passed out and there was a little girl in the front about Trevor's age who was holding a younger sibling. She did not have a present. Even her sibling who she was holding had received a present. The girl went over to the gentleman who had the list of all the names of kids and looked to see if her name was on it only to be told it was not. She quietly walked back over to where she was without a word. The Marines scrambled around and found her a gift. They gave it to her and she thanked the Marine. She then turned around and gave the gift to her brother who was standing behind her. Even now, while I'm typing this, I can feel the lump building in my throat and my eyes welling up. It was the most unselfish act and really epitomizes what Christmas is all about. As the Mastercard commercial states: Move to Africa $50,000 - 1st class Safari and Victoria Falls $5000 - the look in your children's eyes when they actually see how fortunate they are - PRICELESS! <br /></div><div>Merry Christmas to All and to All a Good night!</div>Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-87687697695449616792008-12-22T13:05:00.000-08:002008-12-22T13:26:55.955-08:00Training ProgramsThe last two weeks I have spent training Zambians not to beat their wives and entertaining instructors from the US. I'm not joking about the not hitting your wife thing. It seems that it is traditional for men to beat their wives as a sign of affection. At least that is what the men believe. They also believe that the women expect it and would be suspicious if their man did not beat them regularly. Great system huh? So I have my work cut out for me. BUt so far I am making some headway. I have been on a media blitz tour in order to get out the message that you cannot beat your wife, even if the beatings are only once a month. I have been on call in radio shows, all three newspapers have interviewed me several times and I even appeared on "Kwacha Good Morning" Zambia's equivalent to the "Today Show". It is kind of funny because people have come up to me and said they had seen me on the show. I am known as the American "GBV guy". But don't worry blogettes, if I turn sideways I can still get my head through most doors. <div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>My first two training programs were very successful and I look forward to continuing the process. My women students have also reassured me that they do not believe they need to be beaten in order to feel loved. So only time will tell what impact, if any, the program will have. </div>Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-92160579054680359482008-12-22T12:00:00.001-08:002008-12-23T02:37:22.257-08:00Nairobi, KenyaI left Lusaka around 11:00. I was headed for Nairobi but had a lay over in Lilongwe, Malawi. My three Zambian proteges managed to make it to the gate with about 30 seconds to spare. I would spend the next week with these three as I was escorting them to the Cybercrime conference. Their names were Mulunda, Nkandu and Omari. Malunda and Nkandu worked together as prosecutors for the Zambian Government and Omari was a senior investigator for the Zambian Police. They turned out to be great guys and we had a great trip. However, it did not start out that way. <div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="WHITE-SPACE: pre"></span>We arrived in Nairobi around 16:25 and made our way through customs. By 17:00 we were standing out on the curb awaiting our transport to the hotel which was about 25 Km away from the airport. Our transport turned out to be some guy with an unmarked Toyota Corrolla who assured us he was hired to take us to the hotel. The four of us piled in and fortunately none of us had very much luggage or we would have had to leave it behind. As we left the airport I noticed a very high wire fence about 20 ft tall lining the road exiting the airport. As we travelled down the road, I quickly realized why the fence was there. On the other side there were giraffes and zebras casually grazing in an open field. Unfortunately, I failed to get a picture as I was not expecting to see any wild animals at the airport.<br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="WHITE-SPACE: pre"></span>The next four hours were spent navigating the streets of Nairobi until our arrival at the Safari Game Park Lodge 25 kilometers away from the airport. During those four hours I saw four accidents, I saw two lane roads turned into three lane roads, we had a flat tire that required us to get off the main road so that the driver could change it and then try for twenty minutes to get back on to the main road. I later learned that this was standard fare for traffic in Nairobi. Let me just say in no uncertain terms, THIS WAS THE WORST TRAFFIC I HAVE EVER BEEN IN ANYWHERE IN THE WORLD! Four hours to travel 25 kilometers or 15 miles. I could have walked quicker. But hey, shortly after the fourth accident, as we were waiting for traffic to begin moving again, a dude comes cruising up from behind us on a camel. As he continued to move, and we didn't, the camel looked at us and bellowed a loud grunt as if to say "what are you looking at." Once again I failed to snap a picture as I truly was not expecting to see a guy on a camel in all that traffic. Plus, I was a nervous wreck because we narrowly missed at least seven accidents ourselves as our driver continually made lanes of traffic where there were no lanes of traffic and drove on the shoulders of the road in order to move ahead a maximum of two car lengths only to argue and cuss out the guy who was angry because we cut in front of him. </div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="WHITE-SPACE: pre"></span>The rest of my time in Nairobi was much more pleasant. I was able to meet up with my counterpart, Rob Bowman who holds down the fort for Kenya. He is in charge of the same program I am but he also has a few more duties that I don't have. The interesting thing about Rob is that, for those who don't know, he is a Durango High grad just like me. He is class of 79 so a few years my senior. His mother, Mary Ruth Bowman, was my health teacher at Miller Jr. High. Small world isn't it! Who would have thought that two Durango High School graduates would go on to represent the Department of Justice in two African countries. What are the odds? Must be something in that Durango water. Pretty good testament to the public school system. </div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="WHITE-SPACE: pre"></span>Nairobi is a big city compared to Lusaka. Millions and millions of people, pretty large skyline and lots of shopping, including malls. I couldn't find a Starbucks but there were plenty of good coffee shops selling Kenyan coffee. Plus there was an excellent sushi restaurant at the hotel. I have not had sushi since my last trip to East by Southwest a few weeks before we left. I ate sushi three out of the five days I was in Nairobi. </div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="WHITE-SPACE: pre"></span>All in all, I had a good time in Nairobi despite the unbelievable cluster$#@% that was the traffic. I was able to snap a few pictures of the city and of some of the students who attended the conference before my trip was through. </div>Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-32237846930509336042008-12-22T11:37:00.000-08:002008-12-22T11:56:10.469-08:00Wow, it has been almost a month!I finally visited my own blog and was reminded of how quickly time passes around the holiday season. My blog inactivity is directly related to the non-stop whirlwind tour that is Africa. First there was Thanksgiving. We were able to have a traditional Thanksgiving dinner with Turkey and all the trimmings. We hosted two other families and a guy who was out here working temporarily over the holiday. All the kids went swimming as it was about 90 degrees and sunny. As I read the Durango Herald, I smiled when came across the forecast for Thanksgiving. I can honestly say I do not miss the cold weather. Thanksgiving went off without a hitch as we had plenty of food and drink and the expandable waistline pants once again proved to be worth their weight in gold. The days after were spent preparing for my upcoming trip to Nairobi, Kenya for a week long cybercrime conference involving about 10 African countries. I was anxious to travel to Kenya and to meet with some of my counterparts who would also be attending. Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-15424378837740501732008-11-17T11:22:00.000-08:002008-11-17T11:44:35.124-08:00Busy Busy and Busier!Hello Blogettes. Just a quick note to let you all know that we are still alive. Things have been pretty quiet here as we are gearing up for Thanksgiving. Rianne and Deryn had another school volleyball tournament over the weekend. Rianne's team (Varsity) won the tournament without losing a game. Deryn's team (Jr. Varsity) had a rougher go of it. But the real story was that we finally received our household goods! Yes nearly six months ago we were packed out of Durango and low and behold, all our possessions magically appeared last Friday. Well I shouldn't say all our stuff made it, but most of it did. It had been so long that we had already forgot what we shipped. Even with the extraordinary delay, it was nice to have our stuff and it made our house feel more like home. Now if we could just get our car! Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com3tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-83420264941524518282008-11-05T00:47:00.000-08:002008-11-05T03:09:15.206-08:00Election Day!Hey Bloggees,<br /> Election day has come and gone and we now have a new President Elect. It is strange watching it from afar. No campaign ads, no mass mailings and no phone calls seeking opinions. No letters to the editor trying to sway my vote, no vandalism or desecration of yard signs, no idiots in gas masks or holding doom and gloom signs, just CNN reporting the results and providing world views. The most positive thing to take away from this election is that from the outside looking in, the process of democracy in the U.S. fared well. <br /> Here in Zambia, we just finished a presidential election last week. There was some campaign mudslinging, some outrageous and comical campaign promises and a few veiled threats. But nothing like the campaigning that goes on in the U.S. There is very little media coverage, a few rallies and no debates. <br /> However, individual Zambians are very willing to speak with you about their issues and the candidates they support. One marked difference is that the Zambians are not disrespectful to others who hold opposite views and don't engage in personal attacks on the candidates. Whereas, I cannot say the same for my hometown where I have been following the Durango Herald throughout the campaign. <br /> It always cracks me up when I read a letter to the editor written by a Durangotang endorsing a presidential candidate. First of all, what egomaniac thinks that they possess such foresight and knowledge thrust upon only them that the rest of us dolts of La Plata County do not possess. Secondly, what makes them so egotistical to think that they are somehow able to harness such incredible knowledge and foresight of the Country's and World's issues from their home in Durango, Colorado, and thereafter, disseminate it into golden nuggets of literary treasure so the rest of us who have been anxiously awaiting to fill out our ballots can now do so after being fully enlightened. Yet these party stalwarts (and you all know who they are) are not deterred. OK enough with the campaign rant.<br /> Another thing that was markedly different between the Zambian election and the U.S. election was that here we had to plan for for emergency evacuation just in case violence broke out after the results. Fortunately, the Zambians remained true to their label as a peaceful people. The election was decided by less than 40,000 votes and the projected frontrunner did not win. However, there was no violence which is something the Zambians can be very proud of.<br /> It was the first election ever where I actually had to think about whether or not a transition of power would go smoothly. Never once in the U.S. elections was I worried that the incumbant would refuse to acknowledge a new leader nor did I ever feel threatened to vote one way or the other. I guess what I'm trying to say is that we should all be thankful we have the form of government we have and not take it for granted.Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-3031421656397083552008-10-28T12:35:00.000-07:002008-10-28T13:34:52.777-07:00Tiger Fish Fishing on the Lower ZambeziTiger Fish fishing is quite an experience. Not only do you have to worry about crocs, hippos and elephants but you also have these prehistoric fish swimming in the water just waiting to make a nice snack out of various body parts. I've caught a 3ft Northern Pike and thought it looked pretty scary but it pales in comparison to the Tiger Fish. The teeth on these creatures are unreal and they will chew right through a metal leader. We (as a family) engaged in a few short battles with these freaks of nature and Trevor almost got one in the boat, but alas, they all got away. (A blessing in disguise I'm thinking). Nonetheless, as the saying goes - "I'd rather have a lousy day fishing than a good day at work."Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-61235866913749343182008-10-24T00:03:00.000-07:002008-10-24T01:17:46.299-07:00Walking Safari<span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Hello Bloggettes. The Lower Zambezi is known for many things: tiger fishing, elephants, hippos, crocs, monitor lizards, arts and crafts, beautiful sunsets and the original home of canoe safaris. We were out to experience all of them.<div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>We started out our day at 5:30 am for coffee and tea which was brought to our veranda of our chalet. The verandas overlook the river and provide a personal view of the morning sunrise over the Zambezi River. As the red rubber ball slowly rose over the horizon, I could hear hippos calling back and forth, elephants splashing in the river, and the king of beasts roaring off in the distance. Each chalet is very private and set up to make you feel like your are the only ones for miles. As we sipped our coffee, we could here some stirring and scuffling down the trail. As the sound got closer three little faces appeared. It was the kids making their way up from their chalet. Arguing, pushing and name calling. Our brief moment of peace and serenity vanished. For today was to become another day of high activity and more risk taking. It was also Trevor's 9th birthday.</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>The plan for the morning was that Rianne, Deryn and I would head over to Kanyemba Island for a morning walking safari. Trevor, because of his age, was unable to go on the walking safari. (even though if push came to shove he can probably out run all of us). I could tell he was disappointed but he bucked up and he and Beth climbed back into bed to get a little more shut eye.</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>As the girls and I boated over to the island we came across some noisy hippos who seemed to be protesting our early arrival. As we neared the bank of the island, two crocs (at least 8ft each) scurried partially into the water. Undeterred, our guide, Ricardo, docked the boat on a sand bank and treated the crocs as though they were a couple of stray dogs waving his arm and saying "get out of here ya bums." Reacting to Ricado's hospitality, the crocs slithered into the Zambezi without making a sound.</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>Ricardo, began the safari by giving us the dos and don'ts (no sudden moves and absolutely no screaming) and making sure his .375 magnum rifle was ready for operation. I asked him if he ever had to use it. He said not today he hasn't. Feeling fully reassured, I gave the thumbs up to the girls and off we went. We walked for about an hour without seeing any animals. During that time Ricardo filled us in on the local flora and fauna. Then, without hardly a sound, two elephants were right in front of us about 50 yards away. They turned to look at us and took off in the other direction. We continued down the path and happened upon a herd of ten. They too were very close (within 30 yards). They looked at us, postured around a little bit, let us take some pictures of them and then disappeared into the bush single file. For the next two hours we came upon numerous elephants. We discovered that the male adolescent males are the most annoying as they will "mock charge" you as kind of a game to try and scare you.(It works!) Taking about four steps toward you, spreading their ears and trumpeting. Ricardo said, "just think of it as a nineteen year old male at a pub who is trying to impress the ladies. As long as you don't challenge him, he won't have to embarrass himself."<br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>When we returned to the lodge, Trevor and Beth were waiting for us with breakfast on the way. English breakfast, two eggs, bacon, sausage, beans and grilled tomato. Ah!! Life is good!<br /></div><div><br /><div><br /></div></div></div>Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com2tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-52959933786254655392008-10-23T09:25:00.000-07:002008-10-23T11:55:39.281-07:00Lower ZambeziHello blog readers! I figure it is about time for an update. The Kids were out of school this week so we decided to head down to the lower Zambezi River which is about 2 1/2 hours from Lusaka. We stayed at Kanyemba Lodge. I highly recommend it as the chalets were nice and clean, the food was great and the wildlife was abundant. Kenyemba is known for two things: Elephants and Tiger Fishing. And we had plenty of both. Mix in some hippos, crocs, tons of birds and vervet monkeys and you have a recipe for safari success. The only thing missing was those "friends" who keep saying they are coming to experience a once in a lifetime opportunity at resident rates. You all know who you are. Did I mention it was hot. We had to utilize the pool at the lodge on several occasions to cool down. (No big sweaters or mittens and gloves for us). <div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>The tiger fishing was interesting to say the least. You have to use metal fishing line and a hook the size of my index finger. You put on a chunk of beef (2"X 2") or a half a fish (about a foot long) and let your line drift behind the boat as you float down stream. When you get a bite you have to keep the line taut or the tiger fish will shred your metal line in half. We spent more time re-stringing line than we did catching fish and never did get one of those medieval looking fish in our boat. So I guess we will just have to go back and try again.</div><div><br /></div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>The Zambezi river is beautiful. As we trolled up and down the river we saw tons (figuratively and literally) of elephants, many hippo herds, crocs and local people who live in villages near the banks of the mighty Zambezi. Once again the sunsets were stunning and beyond description. I've included some pictures but they just don't do it justice. </div>Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-6599458730054985932008-10-10T11:43:00.000-07:002008-10-10T13:55:49.897-07:00Cricket is in the airNow that school is in full swing the sports season is heating up. Rianne is starting Varsity Volleyball and is team captain. They won their first Lusaka tournament. She also is starting for the junior varsity basketball team and has played sparingly on the varsity basketball team. In Lusaka Volleyball and Basketball are played at the same time on alternating weekends. Deryn made the U15 volleyball team and her serves are getting better every game. Trevor is playing cricket with the U11 team and has had three matches. He is the wicket keeper and the team captain. This week he was asked to play with the U13 team in a tournament in November. Cricket is the most boring game! (sorry Peter Marshall). Trevor's first match was a test match that lasted a total of 7 hours. They got beat 197 to 104. About two hours into the match on the first day, they stopped and broke for tea. It was about 95 degrees and there I was sipping tea in Musakili, Africa. There were no chants of "nice hit" or "way to go". Rather it was "good show my good man" or "well done Trevor, well done." The match took place at a boarding school and Trevor and I camped out in our safari vehicle because the match continued until noon the next day. A few of the other participants camped also. Let me just say this, it doesn't matter where you camp in the world, there is always going to be somebody right on your a#@. I actually had to take a picture of it because it was too unbelievable. :-) Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com1tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-9233940289445578362008-09-28T07:51:00.000-07:002008-09-28T09:18:54.583-07:00Shopping in ZambiaOn my trip to the Western Province I snapped a few photos of some of the store fronts we encountered. The "climatic shopping center" was a big hit.Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com0tag:blogger.com,1999:blog-4064174696956314878.post-79493195589123077972008-09-28T05:49:00.000-07:002008-09-28T07:48:34.767-07:00Western Province The Barotse KingdomEarlier this month I ventured out of Lusaka to the Western Province. The Western Province is made up of mostly flood plain. During the rainy season there are several parts of the Western Province that are only accessible by boat. I went out with three other embassy officers on a good will tour to check on U.S. funded projects and visit villages to promote the U.S. Mission. It was an awesome feeling traveling around the Western Province as the face of the United States. The Western Province is home to the Lozi people and the Barotse King known as the (Litunga). Because we were the U.S. delegation we were formally invited to have a meeting with the King at his palace. It was like a scene out of Coming to America. People bowing down, receiving lines, and every phrase begins with "yes your Royal Highness" or "no your Royal Highness." The King was a very nice man who enjoys a very cordial relationship with the United States. He thanked us for our country's support of his people and personally invited us back to his Kingdom any time we were in the Western Province. Let me just say this, "it's good to be the King." <div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>The remainder of my trip was spent driving or boating through small villages and meeting with Chiefs, Headmen and children. Most of the schools we visited were very poor yet the children were always happy and filled with curiosity. The schools put on several drama's for us and sang wonderful songs in our honor. I was amazed at how articulate the children were and extremely impressed at the obstacles they had overcome just to be going to school. Many schools were held under a tree with a blackboard leaning against the tree. Others were in grass huts with dirt floors and no electricity. Cafeterias were basically campfires next to the school. Yet these kids were learning about the world and proudly displayed their knowledge to us in song and dance. It was hard not to cry seeing the joy in their eyes when we handed out red white and blue soccer balls courtesy of the USA. You would have thought we had given each one of them a million dollars. Of course each red white and blue ball had imprinted on it "Made in China."</div><div><span class="Apple-tab-span" style="white-space:pre"> </span>My digital camera was a big hit as many of the people had never had their picture taken or seen themselves in pictures. I would take a picture of a kid and show him or her the picture on the monitor. Before I knew it the whole village was clamoring to see the monitor and then requesting that I take each ones picture. Most of them asked how long it would take to get to the United States. I found that question very hard to answer because their only mode of transportation was by boat or by foot so "17 hour flight" didn't mean a whole lot to them. I was amazed at how any kids could learn anything while attending school under a tree without running water or electricity. Yet I met some truly bright young people full of promise and hope. It really gave me a new perspective on that 84 million dollar bond we passed a few years back. <br /></div>Candelariashttp://www.blogger.com/profile/13230585848132295027noreply@blogger.com1